Burglar & Fire Safes Video with “Dye the Safe Guy”

Hi, Dye the Safe Guy here, Dye Hawley manager of SafeandVaultStore.com. Today we are going to be talking about Burglar Fire Safes. First the construction, the fire rating, the burglar ratings and finally the locks.

Burglar Fire Safes

Burglar Fire Safes have different ratings. A standard B-Rated safe doesnt have a tag on it; its just an industry standard that says there is a ½ steel in the door, ¼ steel in the body. The next rating up is an Underwriters Laboratory rating called Residential Security Container. Look for the U.L. tag which states RSC or Residential Security Container rating.

A B-Rated safe simply means that the door is about 2 ½ thick, there is a ½ of solid steel in the door, and the body contains a combined metal thickness of around a ¼ of an inch. The bolts should be at least ¾ in diameter, and if you note here, all burglar fire safes up to TL-30 have an anchor hole so you can securely anchor the safe into concrete or wood floor.

The next level of burglar rating is a U.L. RSC. Look for the label on the safe either on the top of the door or inside, it will state very clearly U.L. RSC or Residential Security Container. You notice this door is a lot thicker, its somewhere around 3 3 ½ of thickness. The bolts are a little bit larger, say ¾ sometimes a 1 youll find and the body is much thicker, somewhere between 3 and 4 inches of thickness. The Residential Security Container rating means that this safe has been tested by the best safe crackers in the world, Underwriters Laboratory.

The next category of burglar fire safes is a high security burglar fire safe. These safes are on our website under high security burglar fire safes, where the previous are just located under just burglar fire safes. Notice the doors are 5 ½ thick, the bolts are 1 ½ in diameter, there is at least 1 ½ 2 of solid steel in this door and the total combined steel inside this safe can reach upwards of a ½ sometimes more. The other thing you want to look for on the door is that Underwriters Laboratory rating that says TL-15. TL-15 means that the safe has been tested at the very highest level. There are also higher levels called TL-30, TL-30 x 6, and TRTL. A high security burglar fire safe is really a jewelry class safe. What does that mean? It means that these safes are purchased by jewelry stores, banks and credit unions, and they get the largest insurance rating for the contents. A TL-15 typically you can insure the contents for upwards of $250,000, a TL-30 $400,000, and a TL-30 x 6 $500,000. The TRTL safes can be insured for content value up to in the millions of dollars. So, there is a huge different between a high security burglar fire safe with a TL-15 or higher rating and the other safes that we looked at previously.

The last thing to look for when finding a burglar fire safe is your fire rating. You want to make sure that you have at least a 1 hour fire rating to protect your valuable contents in the safe. Typically a B or C rated safe is going to have an hour to an hour and a half rating. Look for a label on the inside of the door as it is on this Mutual Rhino safe. On your higher end RSC rated safes; you will see a one hour fire label listed by Underwriters Laboratory. This is done as an Independent Lab. Finally on the high security burglar fire safes, most of them will be a 2 hour factory laboratory test. What this means simply is that the factory has a laboratory that certified the time of the fire test.

Finally consider the amount of size that you need for the contents. So when your looking for a burglar fire safe, these are smaller safes here with about 1 cubic foot of room on the inside which is 12 x 12 x 12. On our website there are sizes from the very smallest here to very very large. The last thing I want to say about burglar fire safes is, put a lot of thought into the total maximum value of what youre putting into it. Whether you go with a B or C rated safe as you see here. Keep it under about $20,000 in value or you go with the Residential Security safe here that is UL tested for burglar and fire. Keep that under $50,000 in value. Or, if you go over here to the high security burglar fire safes which start at $250,000 and go up into the millions. Keep in mind what youre putting into it and how long youre going to keep it there. And by all means anchor every safe you install in your home or business. Thats it for today, thanks again from Dye the Safe Guy.


SafeandVaultStore says:

Actually the truth is, both the mechanical locks and the electronic locks would be destroyed or damaged in a fire. Remember the contents inside the safe are what you care about, not the safe itself. Most people have irreplaceable things they store inside of a safe so paying someone to open it is worth it verses losing everything inside.

SafeandVaultStore says:

Dear dickcheney6,

One of my employees commented below about what happens in a fire. I just wanted to tell you that our parent company drills out safes, fire file cabinets and vaults after a fire. The handle and lock (both dial combo and electronic) actually melt into the door, like a “blob” of metal. It doesn’t matter what type of lock you have on your safe or fire file cabinet.. it will be destroyed. You then call a qualified “safe tech” to drill the safe open. Thanks..”Dye the Safe Guy”

John Schlarb says:

Great video, and a great company to deal with.

SafeandVaultStore says:

@YoungAndPrepping Thanks for the tip. Much appreciated. Dye the Safe Guy

plasticwaygate says:

Residential security container (RSC) is NOT more secure than a B safe. Not sure why the guy in the video would say otherwise. Compare thicknesses of fire resistant material not BS manufacturer rating.
Compare steel thickness of doors and bodies too. If a manufacturer doesn’t provide that information they are probably hiding crapy spec’s. Do your own research. Search for company websites for Graffunder, Sturdy or Brown. You may not be able to afford their safes but you’ll get a real education.

SafeandVaultStore says:

@mattgeb84 Thanks for your questions. You would need to hire a trained safe installer to move a 1,000-1,300 lb. safe. There are many “tricks” that take years to learn and you need special equipment. Unless you have training to move 1/2 Ton safes, do not do this yourself. We offer Platinum White Glove Inside Delivery for an added cost. Most homes can handle up to 1,200 lbs of weight on the second floor. Call us: 800-207-2259 for more questions. Dye the Safe Guy

streethustla24 says:

thats a waist of money. what if someone knocks off your dial on combination lock. how are u going to get ur stuff out?

SafeandVaultStore says:

@mattgeb84 Thanks for your questions. You would need to hire a trained safe installer to move a 1,000-1,300 lb. safe. There are many “tricks” that take years to learn and you need special equipment. Unless you have training on how to move 1/2 Ton safes, we do not think you should do this yourself. We offer Platinum Inside Delivery or an added cost. Most homes can handle up to 1,200 lbs of weight on the second floor. Call us for more questions. Dye the Safe Guy

matty tripps says:

hi i have another question, is it possible to have one of these 1000+ pound safes placed on the second floor of a home, will it come crashing through the ceiling ???

Epro38 says:

You didn’t talk about ‘the locks’ but all in all informative vid

matty tripps says:

i check out your high security safes and am very impressed, but i have one big question for you, is there any trick to moving a 800 to 1300 pound safe ?
what if i someday wanted to change the safes location or move to a different resident, how do i bring the thing with me, do you have any tricks for this, any dollies that work well

dickcheney6 says:

Sorry, I’ll just erase that comment then. I knew that a fire safe was based solely on the idea of protecting what’s in it. I did mention “it would still protect what’s in it” which is really the point. Until now I thought that if the fire safe, itself, was metal, and it would of course survive a fire, then I instictively thought that a mechanical lock would also survive because those are generally all metal-so sorry for sounding like an idiot

SafeandVaultStore says:

Dear crackerms0100: True, this can be a problem with Apartment owners. The anchor hole is usually only 1/2″ in diameter. You can drill a hole into concrete or wood and install the anchor. Cut away a 2″ square of carpet, save it and put it back after you move away. To insure your safe does not “walk away”, we suggest that you are better off anchoring it. It is better to “beg for forgiveness” than to “ask for permission”. Done properly, the landlord won’t know. Dye the Safe Guy

SafeandVaultStore says:

Dear PlasticWayGate: I do not agree with your blanket statement. RSC is an Underwriters Lab test where they state that the “tools on the safe” took at least 5 minutes to break in. It may have taken them 30 minutes to break in because they take the tools off the safe and then put them back on. The 5 minutes represents time the “tools are on the safe”. The Burglar Fire safes we quoted in the video, like the AMSEC have 1/2″ steel in the door and 1/4″ in the body. Dye the Safe Guy

SafeandVaultStore says:

Yes, we charge for shipping and for Inside Delivery, however, so do other sites. The so called “Free Shipping” sites are really NOT free. The $150-200 for shipping is added in to their price. Compare our final total to the other so called FREE SHIPPING sites and you will find that we are usually less.

sweetnessfnerk says:

what he said!! You didn’t talk about the locks.

crackerms0100 says:

@safeandvaultstore You say to affix all safes to the floor, but what if one lives in an apt. where you can’t?

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